Thank you for purchasing your Pro R turbo kit from AA! This turbo kit is designed to provide industry leading horsepower on the stock motor while maintaining great reliability, and being simple to install. Read the instructions carefully and fill in gaps where we try to keep things short. Our instructions will include things we think are important, but always use your best judgement calls on routing, safety, and bolt torque.
– Remove the bed, seats(rear seats if 4 seat), and rear panels(behind the rear seats) from the vehicle. The rear panels come out easily using the 1/4 turn plastic fasteners.
– Remove the exhaust system from the vehicle. This is done by first removing the muffler (our muffler will come with instructions on this). Next, disconnect the o2 sensor and remove the bolts from the head pipe. A 6mm ball headed long allen helps to reach the harder bolts.
Turbo Header/Turbo Installation: First install the header support bracket. This is done by locating the 3 bolts which hold the heat shield to the transmission. Remove the 3 bolts we use, install the mount support plate and use the same bolts. Next, install your AA turbo header with a new gasket loosely to the head. Install the header to the support bracket with the large supplied bolt, then tighten all header bolts.
– Install your AA turbocharger on the T3 header flange. Use the 4 bolts and nord-lock washers which thread into the flange on the header. These are in a tight spot and as short wrench will help.
Lastly – USE CAUTION WHEN FIRST RUNNING! We know you are excited to see the crazy horsepower gains, but keep in mind any oil leaks or improperly routed lines or over boost can lead to big issues. Let the vehicle warm up properly, check for leaks, go on an easy cruise, check for leaks, lines getting hot, charge tube couplers, ect. When it comes to get on it, keep a close eye on things. We highly suggest capturing a data log when first running hard. This will help us make sure things are working correctly. Also make sure peak RPM is within spec. If abnormally high for our clutch settings, this could mean we are creating too much boost
Turbo Oil Lines **Very Important, do NOT over tighten the oil fittings** The fittings will become damaged if over tightened. Snug is best, then always check for leaks when first running.
Oil Feed Line(smaller ID line): The oil feed line uses the male/male black AN4 fitting on the oil filter port located at the rear passenger side of the vehicle. Remove the brass plug in this port and install the AN4 adapter. Thread the oil line through the chassis from the oil filter. Both ends are identical, so orientation won’t matter. This will go forward on the intake side of the motor, then route at the front of the motor near the main electrical harness, then to the top of the turbocharger. Install/tighten the line ends on the top of the turbo, and near the oil filter. Make sure to do your best to keep this routed up and away from extremely hot parts. See images below.
Oil Drain Line(larger line): Remove your alternator cover at the rear of the motor with the 8mm bolts. Remove the cam chain tensioner cover near the drivers side of the engine. Replace this with the AA cam chain tensioner cover with drain fitting. Install your AN10 drain line from the bottom of the turbo to the cover. You can then replace your alternator cover. **Make sure the drain line is as far away from the exhaust as possible, especially at the turbocharger.** See first image in these instructions.
CCV/Boost Reference Line: Remove your CCV vent line which is found on the passenger side of the motor running from the intake plenum to the motor. This has quick disconnect fittings on each end. Using a chunk of the 1/4″ ID silicone tube provided, run a new CCV line from the engine to the brass nipple on your catch can. The CCV port from your intake plenum is now used as a boost reference port for your blow off valve. Using another chunk of 1/4″ ID silicone tube provided, run a line from your intake plenum to the top nipple on the blow off valve. Make sure the CCV/Boost reference lines are clamped well so it will not come off. We found the spring clamps work great on the OEM CCV ports as they are large, but on the brass nipple and BOV top, a hose clamp or zip tie will hold tighter. If adding the boost gauge, you will need to T into the boost reference/BOV line.
Intake Tube: First, locate the electrical connector near the front of the motor on the driver’s side. This has a bracket holding it away from the transmission. Remove this bracket and install the AA lower bracket. Next, from within the cab, remove the crank case breather, then the OEM intake tube going from the airbox to the throttle body. Install your 3″ diameter AA intake tube from the airbox side feeding it near the turbo. This will take a bit of “threading”. Before installing any silicone couplers, we always suggest windex or soapy water sprayed on them to make things easier. Install the AA 4″ to 3″ coupler on the airbox using your OEM clamp. Install the AA intake tube into the 3″ portion of that coupler using the supplied hose clamp. Install the rest of the tube on the turbocharger using the reducer coupler 3″ to 2.75″ (2.75 is turbo side). Make sure all clamps are secure and tight. See image showing the intake tube and shorter electrical connector bracket.
Intercooler: The intercooler is the square aluminum “bullet” piece that mounts on the passenger side of the vehicle. Attach the stainless intercooler mount to the intercooler with the 2 supplied bolts. On the rear passenger side motor mount, remove 2 of the 3 bolts (front 2). Install the intercooler and bracket together on the vehicle. Use a pry bar between the aluminum(bare) and black steel parts of the motor mount to move the holes into position as they will move. Put the motor mount bolts back in place. **Make sure to route the starter cable under the engine side of the mount and not to pinch it.**
Heat Exchanger: The heat exchanger looks like a radiator and has fans installed on it. This mounts on the rear/inside of the cage behind the passenger seat. This can be mounted anywhere with airflow if you’d like to customize the mounting process. Mount the exchanger using the roll bar mounts and ensure the bottom peg mount is in the designated hole. To not scratch the cage and provide more grip, we like to add a few layers of black tape under the mounts. Do not over tighten mounts as they can break. Note the fans will need wiring which we’ll go over in a later section. Lastly, cut a 2ft piece of the supplied 1/4″ silicone hose supplied. Install this on the radiator cap overflow and route this through the small opening just below the heat exchanger. This will simply push to the atmosphere. See images below.
Water Pump & Lines: The water pump mounts nicely near the front motor mount. Remove the rear most motor mount bolt on the front motor mount. Install the AA water pump mount and re-install the motor mount bolt. Install your pump into the bracket and tighten the bracket bolt to the pump until snug. Make sure the wires are not being pinched, and run out the bottom of the mount/pump. Now attach your lines to the pump. MAKE SURE to use teflon tape (not provided) on the threaded side of the pump. We clamp right to the threads, so this makes sure no water leaks past the threads. The line coming off the top(threaded) part of the pump goes to the heat exchanger port near the front of the heat exchanger(feed line). The line from the side of the pump runs to the bottom of the intercooler. The line from the top of the intercooler then runs to the rear of the heat exchanger through a 1.25″ hole you must drill in the plastic. See the 2nd image below this post for details on this hole and routing. See other images for best routing and make sure to properly tie all lines to keep them secure.
Charge Tube: Lube is your friend! Use windex or soapy water as it will easily allow you to adjust couplers to align everything. These kits fit very well, but twisting a coupler or tube just a little bit will make/break how things fit. Take your time to make sure you have proper clearance and fitment everywhere!! Your charge tube coupler kit should be in the same bag together with clamps. All of your charge tube pieces are 2.25″. MAKE SURE the tube coming off the turbo near the shock fill fully clear at full lift (jack the vehicle up). When positioned correctly, it will be close, but clear. You will also need to slightly bend the heat shield(the one on top of the motor) downward on the front driver side corner for the charge tube to properly fit.
When installing tube 2 & 3, make sure it’s pushed completely to the driver side frame rail until the mount is basically bottomed out in the rubber grommet. Then install the 2.25″ straight coupler so it’s flush with the end of tube 2. This will allow you to rotate tube 3 into place, and have enough clearance to get the rubber mount on the end of the exhaust peg. Tube 3 has its own rubber grommet. You can then bend the long 45 degree coupler into place on the tube/intercooler.
When installing tube 4 (shortest tube) you will have to push over on the intake tube coupler to put the throttle body coupler on. They push against each other hard, but this works well. It’s easiest done with 2 people.
See order of events and images for the charge tube installation below. Current images are of prototype tubes and current ones will slightly differ for an even better fit (new pictures coming soon).
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Wiring Harness for fans/intercooler pump: The wire harness connects to the connectors at the fans and water pump. It then needs to go to the front of the vehicle under the center console. See your service manual or other online videos for more specifics, but this needs to come out on the passenger side. Mostly it’s just torx and pop rivets to remove this panel. There are a few pop rivets in a sneaky location up inside the open space with wiring… somewhat in front of the dash. Run the wires with others and make sure that they are not hitting the driveshaft. The two ring terminals should go to the battery power on the pulse bar, then wire the pulse bar connector and connect it. This will make the fans come on with the key on. If you wish to wire in a switch, this can easily be done. We choose not to use a switch as it’s easy to forget, and this can result in high intake temps and issues with engine knock/low power.
Big Injectors: First make sure your injector pockets are clean. Oftentimes these are caked in dirt/sand which is waiting to fall into the intake. Use compressed air and brake clean to extensively clean around the injectors. Next, remove your OEM injectors by pulling the red lock tab out of the locked position. Then, press down on the connector in the center to release the clip and pull the connectors off the injectors. Remove the 8mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the intake plenum. This can be a bit tricky on the most forward ones, so take your time. Pull the fuel rail, then pull the injectors clips and injectors out of the rail. The clips will NOT be re-used. Install the AA injectors into the fuel rail, then install the rail down into the intake plenum. Make sure all injectors slide into the injector boss, and tighten the fuel rail bolts. Install the connectors on the AA injectors. Always key on and check for fuel leaks before starting.
3 Bar TMAP sensor and sparks plugs: Easy! Simply remove your OEM parts and install these ones, nothing to it. The TMAP sensor clip is tough, so we use a pick to pull up on the locking tab from the inside.
Exhaust Downpipe & External Wastegate: This is very self explanatory, but install the exhaust downpipe with the supplied 3″ V-Band clamp loosely. Install your slip-on exhaust and fit everything together. Next, install your external wastegate with the supplied bolts/gaskets. The piston side of the wastegate should go on the header. Once everything is loosely bolted together, tighten all exhaust clamps/bolts for the entire system and make sure everything fits together nicely.
Wastegate Lines & Boost control: In this step, you will use more of the supplied 1/4″ silicone line along with the gold spring clamps. You will need to run lines from the turbo compressor housing, internal wastegate on the turbocharger, the external wastegate, and vent the external wastegate. Starting from the turbo compressor housing(brass barb), cut/run a 14″ long line. Install the T fitting with the proper jet (see jet/boost setup portion or the instructions) into this line, so the threaded end/jet end is in the compressor housing hose. This is important as it will regulate boost. Next, cut a 10″ piece of hose and attach that to the T, then run it to the internal wastegate (attached to the turbo). Now cut a 20″ piece of hose and attach that to the last remaining opening on the T fitting, and run that to the bottom port on the external wastegate. This is closest to the head pipe. Last, cut a 20″ portion of hose and attach it to the top external wastegate port which is simply vented to the atmosphere(basically anywhere). We suggest routing it up into one of the bed support tubes as shown. This keeps debris away from the vent line. FYI, the wastegates are set up properly from us here at AA.
Boost Jets: We have changed boost jet sizes slightly. See original and new sizes listed below. Boost may vary with altitude.
Level 2 (6-8psi): No Boost Jet
Level 3 (8-10psi): 232 Original / 160 New Style
Level 4 (10-12psi): 215 Original / 155 New Style
Level 5 or 6 (13-15psi): 152 Original / 150 New Style
Level 5 or 6 Race Tunes (16-18psi): 100 Original/ 118 New Style
Catch Can: Our catch can is designed specifically for this turbo kit and is needed to help keep oil out of the intake tract. Mount the catch can with the supplied hose clamp as shown in the image below. Next, attach your crank case breather hose(pulled off intake tube previously) to the 1/2″ catch can port closest to the PASSENGER side of the vehicle. Make sure the filter clamp and all clamps are tight/secure. Optional closed loop catch can setup: you can cap the top of the catch can (remove filter) with the supplied 1″ cap and a clamp. You would then need to supply a 1/2″ hose long enough to run to our 1/2″ port on the intake tube. This will push some oil into the intake but catch most of it. If running higher tunes like 4-6, make sure you keep an eye on how much oil is being pushed into your intake tube as you most likely want to have the open loop setup when running those tunes.
Optional Intake Modification: We suggest removing the baffle on the drivers side intake. This is the plastic shield on the bed side of the frog skin. We also found some restriction in that intake, so we like to drill holes and apply frogskinz. See images below.
AA/HP Tuners RTD(Remote Tune Delivery: Currently your ECU must be shipped to AA for an unlock for this device to work. In your package will be the AA/HP Tuners RTD device which requires a smartphone. See THIS LINK for further instructions on using the RTD.
**MUST PRIME TURBO OIL BEFORE STARTING** To do this, disconnect the coils or fuel injectors and crank the vehicle over for 10-15 seconds. Do this 2-3 times.
Last Notes: USE CAUTION WHEN FIRST RUNNING! We know you are excited to see the crazy horsepower gains, but keep in mind any oil leaks or improperly routed lines or over boost can lead to big issues. Let the vehicle warm up properly, check for leaks, go on an easy cruise, check for leaks, lines getting hot, charge tube couplers, ect. When it comes to get on it, keep a close eye on things. We highly suggest capturing a data log when first running hard. This will help us make sure things are working correctly. Also make sure peak RPM is within spec. If abnormally high for our clutch settings, this could mean we are creating too much boost.