Thank you for purchasing your Xpedition kit from AA! This turbo kit is designed to provide industry leading horsepower on the stock motor while maintaining great reliability, and being simple to install. Read the instructions carefully and fill in gaps where we try to keep things short. Our instructions will include things we think are important, but always use your best judgement or service manual when routing, torquing, and safety.
1. Remove the box/dump bed depending on your model. This is easier on dump bed models. For ADV models, see here: ADV Crew Bed Removal Link 1 & Link 2
**Note for ADV Models: ADV models will require removing the back half of the vehicle. You also want to make sure you align your intake tube/charge tube clamps properly so you can easily access them as they will need to be removed to access the clutch cover.
We send 1 extra/optional hose clamp with the charge tube coupler kit. This would go on the throttle body charge tube coupler, but on the tube, not the throttle body. It’s your choice to use this instead of the t-bolt clamp. This allows for easier removal of the charge tube on ADV models**
2. Remove your OEM muffler from the vehicle and the aluminum heat shield behind it. Also, remove your Intake tube along with the crank case breather line. None of these will be re-used.
3. Remove your OEM head pipe (6mm long ball headed allen socket works best) from the vehicle which requires taking off the heat shielding. The OEM head pipe is re-used, but needs to be removed to gain access to the drain tube.
4. Remove your oil filter and Install the oil filter feed line adapter. Then install the 4AN adapter into the oil filter adapter with teflon tape. Next, run your feed line to the adapter and tighten snug(do not over tighten). Then, re-install the oil filter (good time to do an oil change if you are due). You will need to use the RZR turbo oil filter part number 2520799
5. Remove the dipstick tube from the vehicle (two 8mm bolts). In the picture we show the line disconnected, but we can do this without disconnecting the coolant line. Where the coolant line is bent in the middle right of image below, there is a tree holding the coolant line. Remove this to free the coolant line and you can wiggle the OEM dipstick tube out of place. You can then install the AA dipstick tube the same way by first feeding our drain line (added tube with AN fitting) under the line and sliding into place. This is a tight fit. If struggling, you can pull the coolant line like shown below. Bolt the new train tube into place and make sure it’s secure.
6. Remove the OEM dipstick tube and replace with the AA dipstick tube that has the turbo oil drain port welded onto it. Install the 10AN turbo oil drain tube line on the end of the dipstick tube fitting. Then you can re-install the coolant line onto the oil cooler.
7. Head to the back of the vehicle and drill a 1.25″ hole (hole saw) in the frame plate for the oil drain line(see images below). This is an odd drill as there is a radius to the plate where drilling, so use caution and make sure you are not going to hit the frame cross members on the back of the frame. When done drilling, we suggest opening the hole up slightly with a die grinder to remove sharp edges, and give it a bit more clearance. Some may find it easier to drill a smaller hole, then open it up to 1.25 with a die grinder.
**DO NOT INSTALL OIL LINES YET**
8. Install the turbocharger upper bracket first(See above image, but note it’s a prototype bracket when kit was in development). This bolts to near the top of the rear frame plate and uses 2 of the AA supplied smaller 6mm bolts (10mm head).
9. Install the exhaust pipe connecting the OEM header to the turbocharger with the supplied AA muffler bolts, and the 2 carriage bolts at the upper mounting plate.
10. Install the turbocharger: Install the 4 exhaust studs, gasket, then turbo and tighten nuts.
**NOTE: For best fitment of the drain line, we suggest using the RZR turbo oil filter part number 2520799**
11. Install the oil drain line on the turbo. The oil drain line MUST stay running down hill slightly to reach the drain on the dipstick. You’ll need to stay on top of the clutch duct coming out the driver side rear of the clutch cover. We suggest adding a zip tie to hold this in place on that tube. We supply a hose clamp to go around it as pictured. This is with your intake tube kit.
12. Oil Feed Line: Install the oil feed(smaller line) line on the turbo by routing it with the main wire harness and between the intake plenum and throttle body. Make sure to stay away from the exhaust header as much as possible. There is a rubber holder molded into the clutch outlet duct that is not being used, so use that to hold the line in place. Next, route the line through the opening between the frame and rear frame plate, then fasten/tighten only snug to the turbocharger.
13. Lower Turbo Bracket: Install the lower turbocharger bracket with the last two smaller supplied bolts. This bracket comes up to support the bottom of the turbocharger.
14. Muffler & Muffler Bracket: Install the small muffler bracket on top of the turbo inlet exhaust pipe. The 3 pieces are then bolted together with the longer carriage bolt. Put the carriage bolt in place, but leave loose until the muffler is in place. You will need to remove one upper OEM exhaust grommet and move it to the AA turbo muffler. Then install the muffler by sliding on the grommet mount, then install the v-band clamp to the turbo outlet. Finally, tighten the carriage bolt for the middle muffler mount.
**Boost reference line** In the above image, you see the boost reference line going from the turbocharger nipple to the wastegate actuator nipple. This is the orientation for level 1 & 2 tunes. If wanting to run level 3 or 4 tunes, you would then split the boost line, and add the supplied boost T fitting. You’d then vent the boost T to atmosphere. We usually route this up towards the intake plenum with another hose, just make sure the end is free and clear so it can vent.
15. Catch Can: Locate the crank case breather line near the oil filter(most likely you already disconnected it). Use the supplied 3/4″ hose and clamps to hook the catch can(welded to your intake tube) to your crank case breather by the oil filter.
16. Install TMAP sensor, spark plugs & Fuel Injectors. Simply remove your OEM parts, and install the supplied sensor/injectors/plugs.
17. Install clutching: refer to the clutch setup sheet included with the clutch weights
18. Install 2.25″ Charge Tube(starting from turbo): 2″ to 2.25″ 90 Degree Coupler/Clamps > Tube 1 > 2.25″ 45 Degree Coupler to throttle body. Optional: use the hose clamp on the 3rd clamp in(throttle body coupler, but on the charge tube side) for easier removal of the charge tube on ADV models.
19: Install Intake Tube(starting from airbox): 3″ 90 Degree Coupler/Clamps > Intake Tube 1(short piece) > 3″ 90 Degree Coupler/Clamps > Intake Tube 2 > 3″ Straight Coupler/Clamps > Intake tube 3 with catch can > 3″ to 2.75″ Straight Coupler to Turbo. Last, use the supplied hose clamp to fasten the intake tube to the frame.
**Note pictures show t-bolt clamps for intake tube, but we have switched them out to hose clamps for easier fitment/removal of the tube**
– The intake tube must be in the correct position or it will fight you and not want to line up. Make sure to take your time to make sure everything is properly lined up and sealing.
****VERY IMPORTANT THINGS***
– MAKE SURE oil line routing (especially the drain) is as shown for proper draining of the turbocharger oil. Failure to keep the line running down hill will result in excessive turbo smoke/failure and eventually can cause engine damage if oil level is too low.
– MAKE SURE coolant bleed line from cylinder head(where it goes over the 3″ intake tube) goes into the notch in the bed so it does not get pinched.
– MAKE SURE to disconnect the fuel or ignition and crank the vehicle to check for oil leaks, and to supply oil to the turbo bearings BEFORE FIRING for the first time.
– MAKE SURE you check coolant and oil level after starting/running the first time
**Note: Oil level is tough to check after running as the turbo drain is now draining on the dipstick, oil should be checked after letting the vehicle sit for some time, or when cold**
– MAKE SURE to check for oil leaks or other issues often in the first few miles
– Intake tubes are tight in some areas and may rub on the bed or clutch bolt a little after riding.
– Always let the vehicle get up to operating temp before riding hard. ECU motor/knock protection will not be active until 167 degrees F
– Always run extra octane if possible on the level 1-2 tunes! These are high compression motors and a little octane boost help bring full potential of the kit, and make sure you are overly safe when running. We like the VP octane improver (16oz cans) and use half or a whole can per tank.
**ADV models will require removing the back half of the vehicle. You also want to make sure you align your intake tube/charge tube clamps properly so you can easily access them as they will need to be removed to access the clutch cover.**
AA/Dynojet PV3 Notes: This is our suggested tuning device for this kit as it gives you the ability to view live gauges, data log, change tunes and more. We flash your lowest level tune into the ECU before shipping, so the ECU is ready to plug in and run.
If needing to change tunes and for flash tune operation, see HERE
For setting up gauges, see HERE
Gauge Setup: The parameters are a little different from the link above. We suggest keeping an eye on knock cylinder 1 & 2. This shows you how much timing is being removed based on engine knock. Some may be seen, but looking to keep that below -3.5 or octane should be added. Intake temp is also another great thing to view. Temps will come up on long pulls, but we suggest letting out around 175-180 degrees… you’ll normally start to see more knock retard with higher temps. See Image below.
