Belt Alignment: Can cause hard shifting, squealing, belt slip, belt heat: many note this problem and it’s normally due to one of the following issues.
1. Check/fix alignment with the steps below
– Remove the plastic clutch cover
– Check alignment by using a cell phone camera. You can take pictures, but we find it easier to look at your camera screen while moving the phone back and forth from one side of the belt to the other, comparing the gap size on either side of the belt.
– If you find the belt to be out of alignment, you’ll need to properly align it.
– Remove the secondary clutch bolt (different sizes depending on model/year) and all alignment shims from the clutch. Be careful to not loose any alignment shims.
– When you remove your secondary bolt you will notice a shim stack behind the bolt/washer. The more shims in the clutch, the more it will move the clutch toward the transmission. The less shims, the more it will move towards the outside of the vehicle. You can have anywhere from 0 to 8 shims in the stack.
RZR Turbo, Pro XP, Turbo R & Ranger 1000 Shims: OEM Part #: 7557060 https://aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/p90x-secondary-clutch-alignment-shim-kit
RZR Pro R (4 Cyl) shims: OEM Part #: 755711 https://aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/aa-2022-up-pro-r-4-cylinder-only-p90x-secondary-clutch-alignment-shim-kit
– Shim your clutch the way you need the belt to move, this is basically guess and check.
– Install the shim stack, washer, and bolt back into the secondary clutch
– Hold the bolt head and spin the clutch counter clockwise which will tighten the bolt, then torque to factory spec.
– Factory secondary torque spec varies depending on year. Pro XP/Ranger 1000 DOHC from 2018-2020 will be 40ft-lbs, Pro R 4 Cylinder will be 40ft-lbs, but the smaller 10mm head bolt found on 2021+ RZR Turbo, Pro XP & Turbo R is only 25ft-lbs.
– Fire the vehicle up and run it in neutral/park, then re-check alignment
– Repeat steps until alignment is correct
– Once alignment is correct, we suggest riding the vehicle for at least a few miles and checking again. Sometimes the alignment changes after running. Clutch alignment is critical for belt life and performance, so make sure it’s 100% correct.
2. If you cannot get alignment correct with the shims, it’s possible your inner sheave of the primary clutch needs to be pulled with our clutch puller, clean the taper with brake clean and torqued back to the suggested spec of your model. Sometimes manufacturing oil remains on the crank when torqueing the clutch on and it goes too far on the shaft.
3. Our clutch kit does help with this issue as the factory primary spring engages very close to idle. This is nice, but can pose problems and hard shifting. Many including our own shop machine had a much easier time shifting after installing the clutch kit. Our engagement RPM is not high, just barely higher than stock.
4. Worn out center bearing on the primary clutch. Replace the bearing with a new OEM part.
5. Center to center is off between transmission & crankshaft causing too much belt tension. Loosen inner clutch cover bolts and use an alignment tool to center this back up.