Secondary Idle Spin/Hard to Shift: RZR1K/RZR900/Ranger/General

If you are having issues with your clutch and it’s hard to shift, you’ll most likely notice the secondary clutch spinning quickly at idle(in park), when it should be stationary, or just barely spinning. Below is a list we’ve put together of common issues.

Reasons for XP1K, RZR 1000 S/Trail, RZR 900 2011-2022, Ranger 900, General and other to Spin at Idle and be Hard to Shift

1. Primary spring is too weak. Have someone else start the vehicle and see if the primary clutch moves over roughly 1/4″ and stays there. If this is the case, the primary spring should be replaced with a higher engagement spring/new spring.

2. Bad center bearing on the primary clutch that is not spinning freely. If the clutch is new, sometimes it takes a bit for the bearing to break in, but this usually just causes light spinning.

3. Clutch alignment is off. Remove the primary clutch, clean the taper of the clutch and crank, then re-torque to 96ft-lbs. Torque can be manipulated from 80 to 100ft-lbs to move the clutch on the taper slightly. See here to check alignment: https://aftermarketassassins.com/tech-blog/f/cvt-belt-alignment#

4. Center to center is off. Remove both clutches and check with center to center alignment tool which you can find on our website

5. Incorrect belt or even a brand new belt can cause this issue. However in most cases a brand new belt will only cause a light secondary spin.

6. Rollers/weights that are sticking. If the rollers in the clutch(the weights actuate on them) are not moving, this can cause the weight and clutch to stick. Removing the primary spring cover (6 bolts), and belt allows you to collapse the clutch and check rollers by rolling them with your finger

7. Center bushing sticking. This is the bushing the clutch rides up and down the center post on, closest to the center bearing. This is just under the spider. Dirt or grime may build up here and on the spacer above it. Clean this area externally first, but if your issue is not cured you may need to disassemble the clutch. Keep in mind the AA primary clutches cannot be disassembled. You can spray the center bushing(this is what the movable half rides on) with penetrating oil to loosen it back up, then clean with brake clean. See center bushing location below.

8. Primary spider nut has come loose. This is the castle nut on the inside of the spring, normally gold in color. You can see this in the top of the above image (tack welded) If this backs off, it will cause major clutch related issues/performance and can cause secondary spin at idle.

9. Primary bolt washer hanging up clutch bushing. The primary bolt normally has a spring loaded washer (Belleville) and a top hat washer. Sometimes the clutch will hang up on the OD of these and not fully return to it’s neutral position. With a bench grinder or similar you can take off a small amount of OD from these items. This also allows you to remove the primary 6 bolt cover without removing the bolt, making weight changes easier.

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