Sticking Primary Buttons: This is the #1 problem we’ve seen with the U10 Pro OmniDrive clutch. The primary clutch basket (movable sheave) rides on buttons as it shifts. The OEM buttons are very tight, making the clutch actuate with inconsistency. We noticed this inconsistency on the dyno and within our Dragy acceleration testing results.
To see if you have this issue, remove the six 10mm bolts holding your primary clutch cover on and remove the spring cover and spring. Remove the belt (This is a good time to blow out the clutches with compressed air). Now, slide the movable half of the clutch back/forth. It should move freely with no binding. If it’s binding, it will take some force to actuate the clutch sheave back/forth and this will need to be fixed.
The fix: We fixed this issue by removing the rubber dampers from inside of the non-load side buttons (opposite of the load side). **Note to mark the cover/spider/sheave parts to keep the clutch in balance upon reassembly** To do this, you need to remove the primary clutch from the crankshaft with a clutch puller, remove the 6 bolt spring plate/spring, then remove the center spider nut and pull the clutch apart. You must remove 3 of the 6 buttons (the non-load side, see image below). Carefully remove these buttons as they are easy to break! Clutch buttons are the main wearable item in the primary and as they wear they get louder. If you notice your clutch is louder after putting on some miles and there is noticeable clearance between the buttons and towers, you can re-install the rubber dampers to make up the gap from the wear. We like to have around .010″ to .020″ of clearance for best performance and the least chatter noise possible from the clutch.
Tools needed:
- AA Primary Clutch Puller
- CF Moto Part: 0NYM-052104-922-001 – Drive Pulley Nut Socket (for removing spider nut)
- CF Moto Part: 0NYM-052110-922-001 – Drive Fixed Pulley Stop Tool (clutch holding tool)
Note: Instead of the expensive CF Moto tools, you can attempt the task with an impact and holding the clutch as best as possible (an extra set of hands works best). You can use a 1-1/2″ extra deep socket instead of the drive nut socket they provide, but in our case, we had to sand roll the socket to perfectly fit the spider nut as it’s slightly larger than 1-1/2″.
Side to side clutch alignment: side to side clutch alignment is critical for belt life, performance, and clutch longevity. To check this, we use a cell phone camera to look at the gap on either side of the belt in the primary clutch. Some also use a business card on either side of the belt. If your alignment is off, we sell alignment shim packs you can use to space the secondary outward. See shims here: https://aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/u10-pro-omnidrive-secondary-clutch-alignment-shim-kit
AA wide belt and clutch limitation: We highly suggest our AA primary limiter to prevent over travel of the clutch and create heat. This pairs perfectly with our slightly wider belt that helps keep the clutches running smoother, engaging smoother, and shifting out properly for best longevity.