.webp)
**Updated 1/11/2023**
Please read this article in full if you have a 2020+ Pro XP, Turbo R, or a 2021 RZR XP Turbo/Turbo S as it has a ton of helpful clutch information
2022-24 Updates: SOME Pro XP and ALL Turbo R vehicles come with an updated primary clutch moveable sheave that is stronger (Part number 1327287). 2021 RZR XP Turbo/Turbo S models during the stop ride recall were are also updated to this clutch design. This clutch is easily recognizable by the stainless steel metal sliders bolted into the clutch where the buttons ride (#22 in the diagram below). Time will tell if this is the ultimate fix for clutches coming apart, but these clutches will be better than previously. We still know our HD clutch upgrade is a stronger design and provides better belt grip vs the new Polaris clutch. 2020-21 Pro XP models we feel should also be recalled and have this clutch installed as they have the weaker clutch, but Polaris has not done this. 2022 Pro XP models are supposed to come with the upgraded primary with metal sliders, but we have seen some without. 2023+ Pro XP models do come with the updated metal slider clutch. If your clutch does not have the #22 stainless sliders shown in the below diagram, we HIGHLY recommend upgrading to our HD clutch. Even if it does have the #22 sliders, we have still seen failure of the updated metal slider clutch. It’s only a slightly stronger version of the clutch that has been known to come apart.
Most of these models slip the belt from the factory. This occurs mostly when going down the road or trail at full throttle. They are better in the dunes or under higher load, but still not great. Polaris is trying to use many of the same components on various models to cut costs. This is not working very well as the issues stack up quickly. The P90X primary clutch found on these models is also weak by design. More on this later in the article, but keep this in mind as the clutches come apart if the belt slips too much. The 2020 Pro XP was the first model with these clutches. Polaris had a recall on the 2020 Pro XP as the secondary spring (230 rate) was too weak, so they put a stiffer 260 rate spring in. This still slips the belt in many circumstances because they did not add the necessary primary clutch weight to offset the stiffer spring and pull RPM back down. All 2020+ Pro XP models have the 260 rate spring. However the 2021 XP Turbo & Turbo S models have the weaker 230 rate spring in it. This spring is too weak for these models, just as it was for the Pro XP, so they slip. If you simply put a stiffer secondary spring in, they will slip because they need more primary weight to offset. This is why every one of these models really needs a clutch kit of some sort ESPECIALLY if adding performance mods. We have various options which are listed below in this article (or go to your model on our products pages). See below for more info on these clutches.
Belt Slip Issues Having belt slip with your RZR Pro XP, Turbo R or 2021 RZR XP Turbo or Turbo S? You are not alone. We have found many to slip right out of the box under heavy throttle. This only gets worse with larger tires or added power. The problem is these P90X clutches do not grab the belt at higher RPM like the old style 2016-2020 RZR Turbo clutches. We found clutching for 8200-8500 best for normal riding with dirt tires. However in the dunes they seem to grab the belt well around 8300-8600 and are overall faster like this in the sand.
Fix #1: Your first fix is one of our clutch kits. Our kits have stiffer springs for more belt tension and the adjustable weights allow you to properly set your RPM for best belt grip. This comes with a great setup sheet to let you know where to set the weights and you can fine tune if necessary.
*If you are still getting belt slip with our kits, see the other fixes below. If all of those check out okay, then add more tip weight, or move more of the magnets towards the tip (hole 3). Consistency has not been great with these clutches as some take more tip weight to have good belt grip.
Fix #2: BELT! Oftentimes the belt may look okay, but is glazed/hardened from slipping. Many times replacing the belt will cure the issue. We HIGHLY recommend our Stryker belts. We use the 1186 part number belt which is slightly narrower and shorter. This belt protrudes out of the clutch LESS as it goes to full shift, making it less likely to drag on the aluminum clutch housing. These belts have just a little softer compound which helps belt grip. Our belts are much less likely to slip than the OEM belt. When replacing a belt, always be sure to properly clean the clutches before installing the new belt. Scuff the inside of the sheaves (where the belt rides) with a Scotch-Brite pad then wipe clean with brake cleaner.
Fix #3: Belt alignment. If your belt is misaligned, it’s grabbing harder on one sheave than the other and can cause slipping. This is easily fixed with alignment shims under the secondary bolt. See THIS ARTICLE where we talk specifically about belt alignment.
Fix #4: Primary weights sticking. We’ve seen OEM, and even our weights, grab the pin and rotate the pin instead of moving freely on the pin. Make sure your pins are clean and the weights move freely. If they don’t move freely, use Scotch-Brite on the pin to take off surface rust and apply a small amount of anti-seize with a q-tip.
Fix #5: Cleaning dirty clutches. We’ve seen these clutches move a ton of air, which means in dusty conditions the clutches are getting dirty. This dirt often times builds up on the secondary helix/roller assembly and can stop or delay shifting, causing slippage. This goes for any parts in the clutch…. clean these often by blowing them out and you’ll be in good shape. We also see the center primary bushing sticking, causing high engagement and belt slip. You can remove the outer half of the clutch and clean up this bushing that rides over the center bearing/spacer (See #6 below).
Fix #6: Sticking movable sheave. The primary outer sheave operates on a center bushing that is sitting on a spacer at idle, then travels over the 2 way center bearing at full shift. This center bearing can get packed with debris and start sticking. This causes all sorts of random clutch issues like hanging up at idle, slipping, and not fully shifting. You can disassemble the clutch and slightly open this bushing up with Scotch-Brite in most cases.
Clutch Over Shift: The other problem we have found with these clutch systems is that the clutch will over shift. This will happen on any year Pro XP, Turbo R or 2021 XP Turbo/Turbo S, 2 or 4 seat model. The belt rises too far out of the primary clutch at full shift which loses belt grip and will actually hit the inner clutch cover (see picture below). This will also wear down the top cogs on the belt. We have a limiter shim that fixes the over shift issue which prevents slipping from dragging, and will be easier on your clutch. FYI: We use the 1186 part number belt which is slightly narrower and shorter. This belt protrudes out of the clutch LESS as it goes to full shift, making it less likely to drag on the aluminum clutch housing. While we can’t say this is the only reason for the primary clutches coming apart, going from 8000+ RPM then dragging the belt suddenly on the inner cover puts some extreme pressure/load on the primary clutch. A very few select models came with a thicker shim from the factory at random. Find the AA P90X primary limiter shim and more info by clicking HERE
If you think #3 (belt alignment) is your cause, then check out these images below where the clutch was on too far from the factory and hitting the case and plastic. This would be an example of your primary clutch torqued on too far. To check this you must have the P90X clutch puller (this is a different puller than the standard Polaris clutch puller). AA Heavy Duty Polaris P90X Primary Clutch Puller
P90X Clutch Recall & Failure
Polaris has issued several stop ride recalls on RZR turbocharged models with the P90X primary clutch (Pro XP models & 2021 XP Turbo & Turbo S). This was to prevent failure which can cause personal injury and damage to your RZR. The 2021 Polaris fix was to make clutches without balance holes drilled near the clutch towers. This was a band aid on the problem and they were still coming apart. In 2022-23 they put the Turbo R clutch with metal sliders and a stronger movable sheave on 2021 XP Turbo & Turbo S models. 2020-2021 Pro XP models without the stainless slider clutch have not yet been recalled or updated (as of 1/11/2023) and we don’t know why as they should be. Some 2022 Pro XP models do not have the metal slider clutch, even though they call for it in the parts diagram. All 2023+ models DO have the stronger metal slider clutch. Basically, make sure your clutch has the metal sliders (part #22 in the diagram at the beginning of this article). Keep in mind that the new clutch design with metal sliders is better but our HD primary clutch design is still much stronger and grips the belt better (better power transfer and longer belt life).
Solution #1: Add our clutch kit, primary limiter washer, and the Revolver primary clutch cover with tower lock to your factory clutches. These parts reduce belt slip and add strength to your primary clutch. This is not saying the primary cannot still have issues, but the chances of failure would be much less. If sticking to factory clutches with our parts we still suggest no power braking and be cautious if you happen to run into any belt slip. Check your clutches for cracks and issues if you have felt belt slip. We would not suggest using launch control with the OEM clutch. A lower 2000 RPM launch control may be okay with the Revolver tower lock cover installed, but the clutch design is still weak and launch control is the hardest thing on a primary clutch. See the links below for our clutch kits that install into your OEM clutch, and a link to the Revolver clutch cover plate.
– AA Revolver Primary Clutch Cover with Tower Lock (Strengthens the clutch, provides more airflow)
– 2020 ONLY Pro XP S3 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring, steel helix)
– 2020+ Pro XP S2 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring)
– 2021+ Pro XP S3 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring, aluminum helix)
– 2022+ Turbo R S2 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring)
– 2022+ Turbo R S3 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring, helix)
– 2021 XP Turbo/Turbo S S2 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring)
– 2021 XP Turbo/Turbo S S3 Clutch Kit (Adjustable weights, primary spring, secondary spring, helix)
Our shop Pro XP had a clutch explode (early version, not the updated stainless slider clutch. See image below) early in its life during a drag race event. After that we put about 500 miles on an OEM replacement primary with our clutch kit and had no issues. We then put 1500 very hard miles with our clutch kit and testing our Revolver cover and another drag race event. The only thing we did not do in that 2000 miles is any 2 foot brake boost launches. We did many dead stop to full throttle starts, just no holding the brake. Our clutch lasted set up like this until we torture tested it with MANY (50+) 3000 RPM launch control hits. It failed and our broken parts confirm it was a “bad” clutch according to the Polaris diagram for balance holes. To sum that up… while we can’t guarantee anything, if you ride your vehicle hard or just want more peace of mind, we suggest doing it right and moving on to solution #2 (our HD clutch conversion).
Solution #2: Ditch the clutch and go to our AA primary conversion kits. We have been working on and testing (even before the recall) a retro fit kit to adapt the standard 16-2020 RZR Turbo clutch to these P90X models. This clutch has taken abuse for years and we’ve found it to be much less likely to slip the belt while offering better performance. We now offer these kits which include the new Primary, adjustable weights, primary spring, and secondary parts. See below links for more details. (If looking for both replacement primary and secondary clutches, see the S4 Clutch Kit under your model’s category)
– 2020+ Pro XP S2 HD Kit (Complete NEW primary + Secondary Spring)
– 2020 ONLY Pro XP S3 HD Kit (Complete NEW primary + Secondary Spring + Steel Helix)
– 2021+ Pro XP S3 HD Kit (Complete NEW primary + Secondary Spring + Aluminum Helix)
– 2022+ Turbo R S2 HD Kit (Complete NEW Primary + Secondary Spring)
– 2022+ Turbo R S3 HD Kit (Complete NEW Primary + Secondary Spring + Helix)
– 2021 XP Turbo & Turbo S S2 HD Kit (Complete NEW primary + Secondary Spring)
– 2021 XP Turbo & Turbo S S3 HD Kit (Complete NEW primary + Secondary Spring + Helix)
