Is your secondary clutch spinning in park at an idle? If so see this check list below on the most common causes of this issue. The secondary should be still, or just barely moving. If it’s spinning fast, you have an issue.
Reasons for XPT Secondary Spin at Idle/Hard to Shift
1. Belt deflection, adjust belt tension with snap ring delete kit: https://aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/rzr-xp-turbo-snap-ring-delete-kit
2. Bad center bearing on primary clutch that is not spinning freely
3. Clutch alignment is off. Remove the primary clutch, clean the taper of the clutch and crank, then re-torque to 96ft-lbs. See here to check alignment: https://aftermarketassassins.com/tech-blog/f/cvt-belt-alignment#
4. Center to center is off. Remove both clutches and check with center to center alignment tool: https://aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/polaris-rzr-rzr-turbo-ranger-general-clutch-center-to-center-alignment-tool
5. Helix out of center. Really no good explanation why, but removing the helix/spring from the secondary clutch and re-installing making sure the helix is as centered as possible to start with sometimes helps the issue. This could also mean you have a bad bushing in the 3 bolt plate that holds the helix in place.
6. Center bushing sticking. This is the bushing the clutch rides up and down the center post on, closest to the center bearing. This is just under the spider in the movable sheave. Dirt or grime may build up here and on the spacer above it. You can spray the center bushing(this is what the movable half rides on) with penetrating oil to loosen it back up, then clean with brake clean. See image below of the center bushing location. Clean this area externally first, but if your issue is not cured you may need to disassemble the clutch to better clean the bushing/spacer. This requires a spider nut socket and our spider nut holding tool makes it much easier to loosen/tighten. Once apart, you can use scotch brite and brake cleaner to clean the bushing and spacer it rides on.
